New York Fashion Week

Technicolor Glamour: Zac Posen Spring 2012

Looks from Zac Posen's Spring 2012 show, which opened and closed with model Coco Rocha (Imaxtree)

A narrow atrium overlooking the blogger/photographer hubbub in the plaza at Lincoln Center could not have been more perfect for hosting Zac Posen's runway return to New York: in the thick of the action, but removed enough to keep with Posen's singular panache.

Fashion lovers seeking that panache found it on the runway as well as in the front and second rows, where the majors (Anna Wintour, Anna Dello Russo, Cathy Horyn, Andre Leon Talley) waited to find out: Is Zac really back?

He is indeed, and he sent the angel Coco Rocha as his messenger. Coco opened the show in a heavenly cream nipped-waist dress with strong shoulders, origami cuts at the neck and just a whisper of décolleté. It was sexy and streamlined at once—a perfect storm that has sometimes eluded Zac in the past. What followed was one of the designer's strongest showings in several seasons and a wardrobe for both (hard) working girls and jetsetting socialites with a taste for 1940s cinematic glamour—an azure and violet floral flounced frock teamed with cateye shades had us lusting after a ride down the Italian coast in a vintage Alfa Romeo convertible.

When stripped of too many trappings, the Zac Posen curvy silhouette oozes more sensuality than ever, apropos for this Old Hollywood collection. Of course Posen couldn't resist tossing on some frippery here and there in gowns with unusual sculptural accents that, while interesting, seemed unnecessary. Nonetheless, we left with the sense that should we ever have the need for an exquisite ball gown to wear to some fantasy Venetian masquerade, Coco's final look—the Chrysler bulding of evening dresses—would suit us just fine, thank you very much.

See all looks and multiple views from Zac Posen's Spring 2012 collection: